Fencing for Dogs: What Actually Holds Them

Dogs find the weak point faster than any survey. Here is what fails and what does not.

Under, not over

Most escapes are digging, not jumping. A fence with a gap under the bottom rail is an invitation, and dogs work at the softest spot along the whole run.

Closing that gap, or running the fence to grade with a gravel board, solves more escapes than adding height.

Height that actually matters

For most breeds a standard privacy fence is enough. For athletic dogs the issue is usually something to launch from rather than the height itself.

Move the woodpile, the bins and the planter away from the fence line and the problem often disappears.

Visibility cuts barking

A dog that can see the street reacts to the street. A solid fence removes the trigger, which is quieter for you and for the neighbours.

This is the argument for solid over picket in a front yard with a reactive dog.

Gates are the weak point

A gate that does not latch reliably will eventually be found open. Self-closing hinges on a garden gate cost very little and remove the risk of it being left.

Check the latch engages every time, not most times.

Materials

Vinyl and metal give a dog nothing to chew. Timber is fine for most, less so for a determined chewer working at one board.

On a Burbank yard with a digger, the base detail matters far more than the material above it.